Processing ORWO print film

Reviving this blog after a long hiatus as a place to keep records regarding various processes.

I’m about to do some contact printing and was wondering about processing the ORWO print stock

As ever, Richard Tuohy – THE go to man for all things DIY film processing – was on hand to advise:

Hi Richard,
More questions! I hope you don’t mind.
This time all with reference to the Orwo Print Stock.
1. As Neg:
    D76 ok?
    7 mins @ 21°?
2. As Pos:
    Regular Tri-X Process?
From what I could glean from the ORWO publications they suggest D-96 for neg and D-97 for pos. Is it worth mixing that for this stock?
HI Peter,
always ask me, and if I can help i don’t mind at all
D96 is the official kodak developer for bw neg stock.  It is very much the same as d76.  D76 was itself formulated as a bw motion picture neg developer.  I have used D96 but can’t see meaningful difference.
D97 is a high contrast developer.  It too is the kodak recommended dev for black and white prints.  And D94a is the kodak recommended dev for bw reversal.  But in BW there is no need to stick to the ‘official’ kodak recommendations.  Unlike colour.
So, no, don’t mix 96 or 97 or 94 or 95 (the official second developer for reversal).  Just use D76 and D19 (67).
As for times, yes, I would use that and do an exposure test and rate the film at whatever gave the best neg with that development
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Lessons from film

Now that I’ve come to the other side of my first batch of motion picture processing it’s worth noting some general observations about what has been discovered. In no particular order:

B&W Reversal processing:

  • The Fomapan stock needs to be developed a lot longer than the recommended B&W reversal times (10 mins as opposed to 6) and ideally the clearing bath should be stronger & longer too. This goes for both 1st & 2nd developer.

8mm & 16mm colour neg in C41 chemicals:

  • The neg, to look at, has come out quite well but until I get a decent transfer it’s really impossible to tell what I’m dealing with. This obviously has larger implications in decisions about what to buy & shoot. If I don’t have access to cheap yet half decent telecine then it makes working with colour neg impossible. I’m still optimistic that I can get a DIY telecine to acceptable quality. Finding the time is another thing.

Rem Jet:

My feeling after dealing with Rem-Jet…and yes, it’s fucking messy. But the biggest hassle in my mind is not being able do anything with it without access or the funds to get a proper telecine. Until then its just neg on a reel. Useless to project and pointless to do an off the wall telecine, except as an effect.

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About ORWO processing

Having processed some of the B&W ORWO stock that’s available at the moment I was wondering about how the stocks would handle neg processing. What difference might there be. After some research I found this guy in the US who I think works for a processing lab in LA and they’d run some tests. His answer to my question is useful information about processing this stock.

Link to his Vimeo page where some of the tests can be seen:

2013-07-15 11.07.44 pm

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First go at Slide film

I processed a couple of rolls of Velvia in the same chemicals I used for the Super 8 Ektachrome. Pretty happy. Overall they were a bit soft with a couple of exceptions. But the colour looks pretty good for a 3 bath process.

Easier to view on Flickr

Roll_026_Preview_324 Roll_026_Preview_287 Roll_026_Preview_281 Roll_027_Preview_309 Roll_027_Preview_290 Roll_026_Preview_271

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First Colour Reversal

I processed the colour using the 3 Bath Tetenal Kit. The B&W was the home brewed Tri-X formula.

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First Look at 16mm & 8mm B&W Reversal

10 months since I began, I’ve finally developed my first motion picture!

The 16mm was ORWO and the 8mm was Tri-X. I processed them both as reversal in the LOMO tank using home mixed Tri-X formula . I’m pretty happy for a first go.

Added some sound sync and cropping experiments too.

The telecine was just a rushed DIY off the wall. Will be nice to get these transferred properly one day…

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First Tri-X Test

Crappy film off the wall telecine but I’m very pleased to get an image.The result, however,  does throw up many questions……

Thanks Andy for providing the test film!

I also need to work out how to properly correct a negative (last test) in post. I just dragged the invert filter and it looks pretty bad. There must be a better way

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More C-41

I processed another 3 rolls yesterday. I wasn’t sure if the developer would be any good as it’s been a few weeks since I first used it and there’s air in the bottle.

Anyway, that developer has now processed 5 rolls. Haven’t worked out how I’m going to sort out replenishing etc.

A few examples below:

(A bit easier to view in Flickr:

Roll_023_Preview_167 Roll_023_Preview_181 Roll_023_Preview_182 Roll_022_Preview_122 Roll_022_Preview_154 Roll_022_Preview_156 Roll_021_Preview_098 Roll_021_Preview_111 Roll_021_Preview_112 Roll_021_Preview_120

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C-41 Fixer recommendations

When I showed my results and recipes on the APUG forum it has been suggested that I could improve my Fixer recipe. Rudeofus suggests the following:

“C41 needs a very strong fixer and simply substituting Sodium Thiosulfate for Ammonium Thiosulfate will likely lead to retained Silver. If you really can’t get Ammonium Thiosulfate from anywhere in Australia, you should at least add Ammonium Chloride to your fixer recipe to boost it a bit. There’s a formula posted by Ole here, you will have to adjust pH of this brew to reach the pH 6.5 needed by C41. I recommend you skip the Metaborate suggested by Ole and use Sodium Metabisulfite to lower pH to 6.5.”

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Mixing tiny quantities

An update on the earlier post on mixing solutions which I thought was useful info….

In a recent APUG thread this issue of mixing very small quantities came up. Specifically in my C-41 developer the recipe calls for 1.4mg of Potassium Iodide (that’s “mg” not g) As most scales won’t measure such small units the answer is to make a diluted solution. This from stefan4u at APUG:

“Take one liter of aqua demin and add 1 gramm of Potassium Iodide. 1 ml of this solution will be 0.001g or 1 mg (1.4mg will be then1.4 ml).
Including all deviations in measurement this is the best / only way to do this at home…
Than take a small syringe and you will be able to come very close to the afforded ammount.”

And Polyglot from APUG puts it this way:

“Dissolve 10g (or whatever you can measure quite accurately) into 500mL then top it up to 1L, that gives you 10mg/mL. Mix it well, dilute it another 10x to get 1mg/mL and then measure 1.4mL into your developer with a syringe or pipette.”

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